Scientific Analysis of Ancient and Historic Textiles

This volume, the first in a three-part series from the AHRC Research Centre for Textile Conservation and Textile Studies, explores the scientific investigation of historic textiles. Covering fibre and dye analysis, deterioration processes, and diagnostic techniques, it features contributions from conservators, scientists, archaeologists, and engineers. Emphasising the role of analytical science in understanding and preserving textile heritage, the book highlights textiles’ cultural, historical, and technological significance and the multidisciplinary approaches essential to their care and interpretation.

Papers in this volume cover various aspects of the deterioration of textiles and the different scientific techniques that can be applied to investigate the characteristics of historic textiles, their fibres, dyes etc. The authors include textile, paper and painting conservators, conservation scientists, chemists, archaeologists, engineers, biochemists and a zoologist. This is the first of a series of three volumes of papers emanating from the conferences of the AHRC Research Centre for Textile Conservation and Textile Studies, Textile Conservation Centre, University of Southampton. The themes for the succeeding volumes are, respectively: The Future of the 20th Century: Collecting, Interpreting and Conserving Modern Materials, and Textiles and Text: Re-establishing the links between archival and object-based research. Dr Paul Wyeth, Lecturer in Conservation Science and the conference organiser, commented: ‘Historic textiles represent a hugely important part of material culture; they provide rich evidence of social history, international trade, agricultural development, artistic trends and technological progress. Analytical science can play a major role in ensuring the appropriate interpretation, essential preservation and continued enjoyment of such cultural heritage.’

ForewordRob Janaway and Paul WyethConference reportRosie M. Baker and Sarah L. McNettIdentification and deterioration of textile materialsMaterials analysis: techniques and the value of analysis in the context of textile conservationScientific analysis in the identification of textile materialsFenella G. FranceBillowing silk and bendable binders: Is flexibility the key to understanding banner behaviour?Cordelia E. Rogerson and Frances J. Lennard'Net' what it seems! The impact of detailed research and analysis on the approaches to the conservation of two early 19th-century machine-made net dressesSarah Howard and Paul GarsideThe technical analysis of two pieces of 17th-century English embroideryAnna Peranteau, Janice Carlson and Jennifer MassNatural fibre deterioration: microstructural and chemical changes consequent upon ageingDegradation and stabilisation of cellulosic materialsMatija Strlic and Jana KolarSurveying silk fibre degradation by crystallinity determination: a study on the Tang dynasty silk treasure from Famen temple, ChinaSusanne Greiff, Hartmut Kutzke, Christian Riekel, Paul Wyeth and Sophia LahlilStudies on ancient Japanese silk fibres using FTIR microscopyMasanori Sato and Yoshiko SasakiArchaeological textilesOptical and scanning electron microscopy techniques for the identification of hair fibres from Romano-Egyptian textilesJane C. BatchellerThe effect of accelerated ageing on properties of Egyptian cotton textiles treated with fungicidesOmar Abdel-Kareem and Mahmoud MorsyLearning from the present and the pastRecognising textiles at risk: analysis for informing collection care
surrogates and accelerated versus natural ageingPrioritising interventive treatments for textile materialsDavid HowellCharacterisation of metal threads in Renaissance tapestriesAnne-Marei Hacke, Christopher M. Carr and Alan BrownA survey of the most common support methods used on historical costumes and a preliminary investigation of tests assessing the quality of conserved fabricsJohanna M.F. NilssonEnabling the legacy: opportunities for analysis provided by conservation
making reference information accessibleThe development of a Web-accessible reference library of deteriorated fibres using digital images and image analysisJane MerrittDigital microscopy and applications of digital image analysis for the study of textile fibresJudith J. Bischoff and Anne MurrayA model for technical analysis of flagsFonda Ghiardi ThomsenCharacterising and monitoring textilesPhysical properties and the consequences of ageing: mechanical behaviour of aged fibres and associated measurement methodologyAccelerated ageing of fabric supports: is it possible?Christina YoungAssessing the physical state of the fore topsail of HMS VictoryPaul Garside and Paul WyethMonitoring of damage to historic tapestries: the application of dynamic mechanical thermal analysis to model and historic tapestriesMarianne Odlyha, Quanyu Wang, Gary M. Foster, Jaco de Groot, Michael Horton and Laurent BozecMarkers of deterioration: indirect condition monitoring and non-destructive techniquesSignatures of ageing: correlations with behaviourPaul WyethSize exclusion chromatography as a tool for monitoring silk degradation in historic tapestriesKathryn Hallett and David HowellIdentification and condition evaluation of deteriorated protein fibres at the sub-microgram level by calibrated amino acid analysisIna Vanden Berghe and Jan WoutersAnnotating textile biographiesHidden details: textiles with tales and revelatory methodologyInforming textile and wildlife conservation: DNA analysis of baleen from an 18th-century garment found deliberately concealed in a buildingDinah Eastop and Ross McEwingNew insights into textiles: the potential of X-radiography as an investigative techniqueMary M. Brooks and Sonia A. O'ConnorAn initial exploration of the benefits of using transmitted visible light and infrared photography to access information concealed within multilayered textilesKaren N. Thompson and Michael HalliwellMolecular evidence: dye analysis leading to enhanced understanding historic of dyeing practicesUnderstanding historic dyeing technology: a multifaceted approachJan Wouters, Ina Vanden Berghe and Beatriz DeviaChromatographic analyses of selected historic dyeings from ancient IsraelZvi C. KorenHistorical and analytical research of dyes in early Scottish tartansHugh Cheape and Anita QuyeThe application of liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry and accelerated light ageing for the analytical identification of yellow flavonoid dyes in historical tapestriesAlison N. Hulme, Hamish McNab, David A. Peggie and Anita QuyePoster sectionPhysical and chemical characterisation of deteriorated Coptic Egyptian textiles using non-destructive methodsOmar Abdel-Kareem and Khaled El-NagarRaman microspectroscopy interrogating 19th- and 20th-century painted trades union bannersAveril M. MacDonald, Cordelia E. Rogerson, Alun S. Vaughan and Paul WyethUnderstanding the economic influence of the dyeing industry in Pompeii through the application of experimental archaeology and thermodynamicsHeather Hopkins, Lorna Willimot, Rob Janaway, Damian Robinson and Bill SealeArt or science? Reflections on the work of preparing textiles for exhibitionIrene SkalsAnalysis, identification and deterioration aspects of metallic threadsWafaa A. MohamedStudies on dyeing with cochineal and ageing of silk dyed fabricYassin Zidan, Harby Ezz Eldeen Hassan and Kh. El-NagarAnalytical and microscopy techniques used in investigative conservation for an archaeological cap unearthed from Canterbury, EnglandMeg Chuping WangYellow dyes in Japanese kimonoMie Ishii and Masako Saito,

Foreword

Rob Janaway and Paul Wyeth

Conference report

Rosie M. Baker and Sarah L. McNett

Identification and deterioration of textile materials

Materials analysis: techniques and the value of analysis in the context of textile conservation

Scientific analysis in the identification of textile materials

Fenella G. France

Billowing silk and bendable binders: Is flexibility the key to understanding banner behaviour?

Cordelia E. Rogerson and Frances J. Lennard

'Net' what it seems! The impact of detailed research and analysis on the approaches to the conservation of two early 19th-century machine-made net dresses

Sarah Howard and Paul Garside

The technical analysis of two pieces of 17th-century English embroidery

Anna Peranteau, Janice Carlson and Jennifer Mass

Natural fibre deterioration: microstructural and chemical changes consequent upon ageing

Degradation and stabilisation of cellulosic materials

Matija Strlic and Jana Kolar

Surveying silk fibre degradation by crystallinity determination: a study on the Tang dynasty silk treasure from Famen temple, China

Susanne Greiff, Hartmut Kutzke, Christian Riekel, Paul Wyeth and Sophia Lahlil

Studies on ancient Japanese silk fibres using FTIR microscopy

Masanori Sato and Yoshiko Sasaki

Archaeological textiles

Optical and scanning electron microscopy techniques for the identification of hair fibres from Romano-Egyptian textiles

Jane C. Batcheller

The effect of accelerated ageing on properties of Egyptian cotton textiles treated with fungicides

Omar Abdel-Kareem and Mahmoud Morsy

Learning from the present and the past

Recognising textiles at risk: analysis for informing collection care; surrogates and accelerated versus natural ageing

Prioritising interventive treatments for textile materials

David Howell

Characterisation of metal threads in Renaissance tapestries

Anne-Marei Hacke, Christopher M. Carr and Alan Brown

A survey of the most common support methods used on historical costumes and a preliminary investigation of tests assessing the quality of conserved fabrics

Johanna M.F. Nilsson

Enabling the legacy: opportunities for analysis provided by conservation; making reference information accessible

The development of a Web-accessible reference library of deteriorated fibres using digital images and image analysis

Jane Merritt

Digital microscopy and applications of digital image analysis for the study of textile fibres

Judith J. Bischoff and Anne Murray

A model for technical analysis of flags

Fonda Ghiardi Thomsen

Characterising and monitoring textiles

Physical properties and the consequences of ageing: mechanical behaviour of aged fibres and associated measurement methodology

Accelerated ageing of fabric supports: is it possible?

Christina Young

Assessing the physical state of the fore topsail of HMS Victory

Paul Garside and Paul Wyeth

Monitoring of damage to historic tapestries: the application of dynamic mechanical thermal analysis to model and historic tapestries

Marianne Odlyha, Quanyu Wang, Gary M. Foster, Jaco de Groot, Michael Horton and Laurent Bozec

Markers of deterioration: indirect condition monitoring and non-destructive techniques

Signatures of ageing: correlations with behaviour

Paul Wyeth

Size exclusion chromatography as a tool for monitoring silk degradation in historic tapestries

Kathryn Hallett and David Howell

Identification and condition evaluation of deteriorated protein fibres at the sub-microgram level by calibrated amino acid analysis

Ina Vanden Berghe and Jan Wouters

Annotating textile biographies

Hidden details: textiles with tales and revelatory methodology

Informing textile and wildlife conservation: DNA analysis of baleen from an 18th-century garment found deliberately concealed in a building

Dinah Eastop and Ross McEwing

New insights into textiles: the potential of X-radiography as an investigative technique

Mary M. Brooks and Sonia A. O'Connor

An initial exploration of the benefits of using transmitted visible light and infrared photography to access information concealed within multilayered textiles

Karen N. Thompson and Michael Halliwell

Molecular evidence: dye analysis leading to enhanced understanding historic of dyeing practices

Understanding historic dyeing technology: a multifaceted approach

Jan Wouters, Ina Vanden Berghe and Beatriz Devia

Chromatographic analyses of selected historic dyeings from ancient Israel

Zvi C. Koren

Historical and analytical research of dyes in early Scottish tartans

Hugh Cheape and Anita Quye

The application of liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry and accelerated light ageing for the analytical identification of yellow flavonoid dyes in historical tapestries

Alison N. Hulme, Hamish McNab, David A. Peggie and Anita Quye

Poster section

Physical and chemical characterisation of deteriorated Coptic Egyptian textiles using non-destructive methods

Omar Abdel-Kareem and Khaled El-Nagar

Raman microspectroscopy interrogating 19th- and 20th-century painted trades union banners

Averil M. MacDonald, Cordelia E. Rogerson, Alun S. Vaughan and Paul Wyeth

Understanding the economic influence of the dyeing industry in Pompeii through the application of experimental archaeology and thermodynamics

Heather Hopkins, Lorna Willimot, Rob Janaway, Damian Robinson and Bill Seale

Art or science? Reflections on the work of preparing textiles for exhibition

Irene Skals

Analysis, identification and deterioration aspects of metallic threads

Wafaa A. Mohamed

Studies on dyeing with cochineal and ageing of silk dyed fabric

Yassin Zidan, Harby Ezz Eldeen Hassan and Kh. El-Nagar

Analytical and microscopy techniques used in investigative conservation for an archaeological cap unearthed from Canterbury, England

Meg Chuping Wang

Yellow dyes in Japanese kimono

Mie Ishii and Masako Saito

• Edited by Rob Janaway
• Edited by Paul Wyeth