Dyes in History and Archaeology 35/36

The essays focus on natural yellow dyes, highlighting sources like sawwort, weld, and chamomile, and their roles in European and Persian dyeing and medicine. Based on papers from the DHA meetings in Pisa and Hampton Court, it also explores cochineal’s discovery by Cornelis Drebbel, Victorian use of cudbear, and new non-destructive techniques for studying Japanese textiles. Together, these studies offer a vivid picture of dye history across time and cultures.

Sources of yellow natural dyes provide a leitmotif running through the papers contained inthis volume. Sawwort is the source of a yellow dye that played an important part in textiledyeing in 15th-century Europe and was traded by the Florentine dye company of Francescodi Giuliano Salviati. It is less well known than weld, also traded by the Salviati company andused all over Europe as well as in Iran for dyeing Persian carpets. Some sources of yellow dyealso have a pharmaceutical role: chamomile is one such, present among the named boxesof ‘simples’ housed at the Spezieria di Santa Maria della Scala, Rome. Not every paper presented at the 35th and 36th meetings of Dyes in History and Archaeologyheld in Pisa (2016) and Hampton Court (2017) focused on yellow dyes, however. Othertopics discussed and presented in this book include the fascinating story of Cornelis Drebbel,the scarlet cochineal dye he discovered and its subsequent history; a Victorian carpetmanufacturer who used the lichen dye cudbear; and non-destructive methods of examinationof Japanese textiles. The front cover shows sawwort (Serratula tinctoria L.) growing in the photographer’s garden in theCevennes, southern France. Photo Dominique Cardon.

Cornelis Drebbel's Scarlet Matthijs de Keijzer, Art Ness Proano Gaibor and Muriel Geldof

Fake Lakes? The Use of Starch and other Adsorbent Substrates for Synthetic Dyes in Paint Manufacture Eva Eis

Treading on Lichen: The Use of Cudbear by a Victorian Carpet Manufacturer Terry T. Schaeffer and Laura Maccarelli

A Non-Destructive Approach to Dye Analysis for Typical 17th-19th-Century East Asian Textiles Yoshiko Sasaki and Ken Sasaki

Non-Destructive Spectroscopic Approaches for the Analysis of Dyes in Japanese Textiles: Analyses of an Early Edo Era (17th Century) Kimono Fragment Yoshiko Sasaki and Ken Sasaki

The Tradition of Using Natural Dyes in Latvia Anete Karlsone

Revealing the Mysteries of the Madder Bath Vincent Daniels

Analysis of Red Yarns in Textiles from the Huaca Malena Archaeological Site in Peru Laura Maccarelli, Terry T. Schaeffer, Elizabeth Burr and Ioanna Kakoulli

Ancient Dyes with Medical and Pharmacological Properties M. Julia Martinez Garcia, M. Luisa Vazquez de Agredos Pascual and Rita Pagiotti

Yellow Dyes of Historical Importance IV: Sourcing and Consumption of Yellow Dyes by the Dyeing Company, Francesco di Giuliano Salviati e Comp., tintori d'Arte Maggiore, in Florence (1483-1498) Dominique Cardon and Ingrid Houssaye Michienzi

Natural Yellow Dye Sources in Persian Carpets: A Review,

Cornelis Drebbel’s Scarlet
Matthijs de Keijzer, Art Néss Proaño Gaibor and Muriel Geldof

Fake Lakes? The Use of Starch and other Adsorbent Substrates for Synthetic Dyes in Paint Manufacture
Eva Eis

Treading on Lichen: The Use of Cudbear by a Victorian Carpet Manufacturer
Terry T. Schaeffer and Laura Maccarelli

A Non-Destructive Approach to Dye Analysis for Typical 17th–19th-Century East Asian Textiles
Yoshiko Sasaki and Ken Sasaki

Non-Destructive Spectroscopic Approaches for the Analysis of Dyes in Japanese Textiles: Analyses
of an Early Edo Era (17th Century) Kimono Fragment
Yoshiko Sasaki and Ken Sasaki

The Tradition of Using Natural Dyes in Latvia
Anete Karlsone

Revealing the Mysteries of the Madder Bath
Vincent Daniels

Analysis of Red Yarns in Textiles from the Huaca Malena Archaeological Site in Peru
Laura Maccarelli, Terry T. Schaeffer, Elizabeth Burr and Ioanna Kakoulli

Ancient Dyes with Medical and Pharmacological Properties
M. Julia Martínez García, M. Luisa Vázquez de Ágredos Pascual and Rita Pagiotti

Yellow Dyes of Historical Importance IV: Sourcing and Consumption of Yellow Dyes by the Dyeing
Company, Francesco di Giuliano Salviati e Comp., tintori d’Arte Maggiore, in Florence (1483–1498)
Dominique Cardon and Ingrid Houssaye Michienzi

Natural Yellow Dye Sources in Persian Carpets: A Review

• Edited by Jo Kirby