Unravelling Textiles

This comprehensive handbook offers essential guidance for the care and preservation of textile collections. Aimed at curators, conservators, collection managers, and students, it covers textile fibres, production and decoration techniques, and the impact of environmental factors on textile degradation. Practical sections address safe storage, display, transport, materials compatibility, and documentation. Originally published in Dutch, this English edition serves as a valuable reference for the professional management and long-term conservation of historic and contemporary textile collections.

This book (first published in the Netherlands as Op de keper beschouwd. Handboek voor het behoud van textielcollecties), sets out to present the basic information necessary for the professional safekeeping of textile collections. Aimed at curators and owners of textile collections, collection management staff, conservators and conservation students, it contains: An overview of the most common textile fibres, production processes and techniques of decoration. A description of the degradation processes of textiles and the effects of temperature, relative humidity, air pollution and light on textiles. Discussions on the storage, transit and exhibition of textiles and materials which can safely be used with textiles. Guidance for documentation, conservation and restoration, and collection management strategies.

Preface Introduction Acknowledgements Materials Fibres in general (polymers) Classification The chemistry and physics of polymers Cellulose Proteins Vegetable fibres Flax/linen Cotton Animal fibres Wool/hair Silk Man-made fibres Semi-synthetic fibres Synthetic fibres Morphology Other synthetic fibres made from inorganic material Textile techniques Spinning Weaving Binding systems Tapestries Other techniques Decorative techniques Dyeing and printing textiles Natural dyes Synthetic dyes Textile finishes/after treatments Degradation of textiles Natural decay of cellulose Oxidation Hydrolysis Cross-linking Influence of environmental circumstances Natural decay of proteins Photodegradation Hydrolysis Influence of environmental circumstances Natural decay of other fibre material Physical-mechanical processes Response to moisture Response to mechanical forces Response to tension Intrinsic decay Other factors Identifying degradation The museum environment The properties of the environment Temperature Relative humidity Air pollution Measuring and recording the museum environment The control of environmental conditions Division into zones Conditioning of the environment Summary Appendix Psychrometric chart Materials and their equilibrium moisture content (EMC) The effect of organic materials on the changes in the indoor climate Light Introduction Electromagnetic spectrum
wavelength Light intensity, luminance and reflection Damage Measuring devices Lux meter UV meter Blue wool standard LightCheck strips Visible light Damage to materials Light sources Measures to reduce light levels UV radiation Damage to materials Light sources Measures to filter out UV radiation Infrared radiation Damage to materials Light sources Measures to eliminate IR radiation Light sources Fibre optics Energy efficiency Presenting a textile collection Lighting design Recent developments Insects and fungi in textile collections Insects Characteristics Development Requirements Insects in textile collections Fungi Fungi in textile collections Characteristics and development Requirements Damage caused by fungi Active or not? Integrated pest management The five steps of IPM Detection Disinfestation and disinfection methods Insects Fungi Other methods Choosing the most appropriate disinfestation method Storage Storage facilities General guidelines Preventive measures Quarantine Storage systems and materials Suitable systems Suitable materials Access to and use of storage facilities Objects in storage Location of collection(s) in museum buildings Storage of textiles Large and/or long two-dimensional textiles Small two-dimensional textiles Flat textiles with pile Flat, composite objects Three-dimensional textiles Three-dimensional objects Transportation Determining the object's fragility Risk analysis of the transportation route Means of external transportation Optimising the object and/or route Determining the necessary protection and designing the packaging Packing the object Transporting/couriering Unpacking and checking the object Evaluate and improve approach Textiles on display Temporary exhibitions Textiles as part of a (semi-)permanent exhibition Textiles in interiors Light Environment Abrasion Replicas Seasonal closure Showcases or open display? Climatic conditions and showcases Light and showcases Exhibiting textiles Large and/or long two-dimensional textiles Small two-dimensional textiles Flat textiles with pile Flat, composite objects Three-dimensional textiles Three-dimensional objects Appendix Materials for making a padded, fabric-covered board Instructions for making a padded, fabric-covered board Materials for conservation Research Products Sheet materials for making supports Materials used in making supports Adhesives and tapes Barrier foils Packaging material Personal safety Fabrics, non-wovens and fabric tapes Other materials Conservation and restoration The history of conservation Terminology The textile conservator Ethical code Contracting out conservation work Defining tasks Mechanical cleaning of textiles The removal of dust Documentation The documentary task: registration and documentation of a museum collection Computerisation Objects entering the collection Registration of objects entering a collection The sending out of objects The acquisition of objects Describing the object Location control and the moving of objects Numbering of textile objects Condition reports Photography Appendix Form of entry Form of return Collection management Collection plan Maintenance plan The condition report Disaster plan Textile calamities and first aid Water damage Glossary Bibliography Index,

Preface

Introduction

Acknowledgements

Materials

Fibres in general (polymers)

Classification

The chemistry and physics of polymers

Cellulose

Proteins

Vegetable fibres

Flax/linen

Cotton

Animal fibres

Wool/hair

Silk

Man-made fibres

Semi-synthetic fibres

Synthetic fibres

Morphology

Other synthetic fibres made from inorganic material

Textile techniques

Spinning

Weaving

Binding systems

Tapestries

Other techniques

Decorative techniques

Dyeing and printing textiles

Natural dyes

Synthetic dyes

Textile finishes/after treatments

Degradation of textiles

Natural decay of cellulose

Oxidation

Hydrolysis

Cross-linking

Influence of environmental circumstances

Natural decay of proteins

Photodegradation

Hydrolysis

Influence of environmental circumstances

Natural decay of other fibre material

Physical-mechanical processes

Response to moisture

Response to mechanical forces

Response to tension

Intrinsic decay

Other factors

Identifying degradation

The museum environment

The properties of the environment

Temperature

Relative humidity

Air pollution

Measuring and recording the museum environment

The control of environmental conditions

Division into zones

Conditioning of the environment

Summary

Appendix

Psychrometric chart

Materials and their equilibrium moisture content (EMC)

The effect of organic materials on the changes in the indoor climate

Light

Introduction

Electromagnetic spectrum; wavelength

Light intensity, luminance and reflection

Damage

Measuring devices

Lux meter

UV meter

Blue wool standard

LightCheck strips

Visible light

Damage to materials

Light sources

Measures to reduce light levels

UV radiation

Damage to materials

Light sources

Measures to filter out UV radiation

Infrared radiation

Damage to materials

Light sources

Measures to eliminate IR radiation

Light sources

Fibre optics

Energy efficiency

Presenting a textile collection

Lighting design

Recent developments

Insects and fungi in textile collections

Insects

Characteristics

Development

Requirements

Insects in textile collections

Fungi

Fungi in textile collections

Characteristics and development

Requirements

Damage caused by fungi

Active or not?

Integrated pest management

The five steps of IPM

Detection

Disinfestation and disinfection methods

Insects

Fungi

Other methods

Choosing the most appropriate disinfestation method

Storage

Storage facilities

General guidelines

Preventive measures

Quarantine

Storage systems and materials

Suitable systems

Suitable materials

Access to and use of storage facilities

Objects in storage

Location of collection(s) in museum buildings

Storage of textiles

Large and/or long two-dimensional textiles

Small two-dimensional textiles

Flat textiles with pile

Flat, composite objects

Three-dimensional textiles

Three-dimensional objects

Transportation

Determining the object's fragility

Risk analysis of the transportation route

Means of external transportation

Optimising the object and/or route

Determining the necessary protection and designing the packaging

Packing the object

Transporting/couriering

Unpacking and checking the object

Evaluate and improve approach

Textiles on display

Temporary exhibitions

Textiles as part of a (semi-)permanent exhibition

Textiles in interiors

Light

Environment

Abrasion

Replicas

Seasonal closure

Showcases or open display?

Climatic conditions and showcases

Light and showcases

Exhibiting textiles

Large and/or long two-dimensional textiles

Small two-dimensional textiles

Flat textiles with pile

Flat, composite objects

Three-dimensional textiles

Three-dimensional objects

Appendix

Materials for making a padded, fabric-covered board

Instructions for making a padded, fabric-covered board

Materials for conservation

Research

Products

Sheet materials for making supports

Materials used in making supports

Adhesives and tapes

Barrier foils

Packaging material

Personal safety

Fabrics, non-wovens and fabric tapes

Other materials

Conservation and restoration

The history of conservation

Terminology

The textile conservator

Ethical code

Contracting out conservation work

Defining tasks

Mechanical cleaning of textiles

The removal of dust

Documentation

The documentary task: registration and documentation of a museum collection

Computerisation

Objects entering the collection

Registration of objects entering a collection

The sending out of objects

The acquisition of objects

Describing the object

Location control and the moving of objects

Numbering of textile objects

Condition reports

Photography

Appendix

Form of entry

Form of return

Collection management

Collection plan

Maintenance plan

The condition report

Disaster plan

Textile calamities and first aid

Water damage

Glossary

Bibliography

Index

• By (author) Foekje Boersma